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Different Print Techniques
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Application Printing
This is the traditional form of silk printing (as described in the previous pages) where we
start with white silk and apply colour to it.
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Discharge Printing
This form of printing involves dying the background colour (usually the darkest of the colour in the designs)
with a "dischargeable" dye.
The cloth is then laid on the table and printed in the normal way, however the print is very difficult to make out
at this stage.
Once completely dry, the cloth is put into the steamer and it is here that the "magic" occurs!
The printed colour has been combined with a discharge agent and this bleaches out the background colour, enabling
the new lighter colour to take its place.
We use this technique for printing velvet which, if printed in the traditional way, would result in the white root
of the pile "grinning through" a darker colour.
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Devoré
From the French "to devour" or eat away.
The devoré fabric (often velvet) is woven with a silk net and viscose pile.
The fabric is laid on the table and the design is printed, not with colour but with a special clear paste.
When the fabric is baked in an oven, the paste attacks the viscose but leaves the silk net alone.
The loose viscose is then washed away, revealing the design.
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Expandex (or Puffa)
This technique adds texture to fabric.
Used mainly on velvet, a repeating pattern is screen printed on the back of the fabric, using Expandex.
When this is baked in the oven it expands and "crimps up" the velvet, resulting in a textured surface.
We use this mainly for accessories, such as bags.
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Pigment Printing
This type of printing is more often used for interior fabrics, rather than fashion fabrics, as it gives a slightly stiff handle.
The print colour is opaque and so not affected by a darker ground colour.
Also the pigment is fixed to the surface of the fabric, so there is no pattern on the reverse.
True metallic colours are only available in pigment form.
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Copyright © 2012 Beckford Silk
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